DIAMOND APPLICATION GUIDE
Diamonds can be applied through two general methods. The first method installs the diamonds through the top surface of a nail enhancement, the second places them through an enhancement’s underside via dual-forms. Both gel- (UV cured) and acrylic (powder and monomer) products can be used. Regular nail polish (lacquer) is not a sufficient foundation in which to adhere diamonds.
Disclaimer: These instructions are intended for skilled nail professionals and well-equipped hobbyists that could achieve 4-6 week retention of their nail enhancement sets on clients that maintain 2-3.5 week appointment spacing.
METHOD ONE: Installing Through the Surface
First, complete a set of nail enhancements making sure to plan the design for diamond placement. In gel manicures - including full-coverage tip or “Gel-X” extensions - or acrylic manicures, stones can be installed before the topcoat is applied. Wipe the enhancement surface with a lint-free wipe or brush with alcohol to ensure a clear view of the nail, enhancement, and any artwork.
For diamonds over 1mm in diameter, load your electric file with a medium-grit ball bit approximately the same diameter* as the diamond that will be installed, erring on the smaller side for additional precision. For 1mm diamonds, it is recommended to use a needle bit. Identify the exact intended location of the diamond’s center. With the file spinning at medium speed in one hand, and a controlled grip on your client’s finger with the other hand, slowly draw the head of the bit towards the intended diamond location. Lightly make contact, allowing the bit to etch only a small dot of material from the enhancement surface before withdrawing the bit and checking placement. Wiping dust from the enhancement may assist this visual check. This initial divot serves the same function as a pilot hole. When drilling is resumed, the bit will more easily stabilize as it removes additional material. If the pilot divot’s placement is wrong, simply redrill in the correct location - erroneous pilot divots are easily filled in a later step.
Return the spinning bit to the pilot divot and remove enhancement material until approximately half the ball bit fits into the enhancement surface. Withdraw the bit once more and use a nail brush and alcohol to sweep dust out of the divot, and check the opacity of the product at the deepest point of the divot to assure there is sufficient product shielding the natural nail. If needed, pick up the diamond with tweezers and place it, point down, in the divot to gauge the additional depth and width needed to be drilled. The topmost facet of the diamond, called the Table, can sit as high as just above the rest of the pre-topcoated enhancement surface. Alternatively, diamonds can be deeply embedded in the enhancement, as long as there is a layer of enhancement product between the deepest point of the diamond and the natural nail.
Continue to remove enhancement material until the depth of the divot leaves the diamond’s Table at the correct level. The shape of the bit will inherently leave some additional space surrounding the diamond. This space is vital for a secure installation. Be sure to allow any alcohol to fully dry before moving to the next step.
To adhere the diamond to the nail, either acrylic or gel products can be used. Gel is recommended for beginners due to its controllability.
Acrylic Adhesion
To adhere with acrylic, form a small, relatively dry bead of acrylic slightly larger than the size of the diamond. Place the bead into the divot, put down the acrylic brush, and pick up the diamond with tweezers. Place it, point down, into the acrylic bead. Use an instrument with a small, flat end pressed onto the Table face of the stone to position the diamond as desired within the divot - the rear end of tweezers already in hand may suffice. Remember while positioning the stone that Brilliant-cut diamonds display maximum sparkle when the table faces the viewer. Hold the stone in position until the acrylic bead has hardened. Remove the flat-ended instrument from the top of the diamond. Ideally, the amount of acrylic slightly overflows the divot, forming a lip around both the divot and Crown of the diamond. If too little acrylic was used, the diamond will easily fall out of place, and this step must be redone with more product.
Gel Adhesion
If using gel, a hard-curing gel product must be used. In the myriad of products available, these can be titled builder gel, sculpting gel, UV glue, builder-in-a-bottle, polygel, hybrid gel or hard gel. However, some products with these labels may not be sufficiently strong. The candidate product must be viscous enough to sculpt a medium-length tip over a nail form, and cure hard enough so that such a sculpted nail could be worn by a client. The viscosity of an uncured product may not necessarily correlate to the strength of the cured product. My Diamond Nails is currently experimenting with multiple products and contacting their manufacturers in order to publish formal recommendations. So far, we have determined that the easiest products to use are extremely viscous gel products which can be formed into shapes with a gloved hand.
Using a spatula, brush, gloved hands or the nozzle of product packaging, place a small amount of hard-curing gel product into the divot. Pick up the diamond with tweezers. Place the stone, point down, into the gel in the divot. Use an instrument with a small, flat end pressed onto the Table face of the stone to position the diamond as desired within the divot - the rear end of tweezers already in hand may suffice. Remember while positioning the stone that Brilliant-cut diamonds display maximum sparkle when the table faces the viewer and that the ideal amount of gel slightly overflows the divot, forming a lip around both the divot and the Crown of the diamond. Once properly positioned, flash-cure the area for 10 seconds. Remove the flat-ended instrument from the top of the diamond. If too little product was used, the diamond will easily fall out of place, and this step must be redone with more product. Fully cure the enhancement according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Use a hand file to smooth any overflowed excess product from around the diamond - recall that even high quality hand files will not scratch a diamond! Bits for an electric file, however, are sometimes made with diamonds. Remove all excess dust from filing with alcohol and a nail brush. Use a self-leveling gel to fill any misplaced pilot divots or other surface imperfections.
Apply any additional design elements. Top coat and cure as usual.
*The ball bits recommended for creating these divots are more coarse and usually smaller than larger “cuticle” ball bits that are used, sometimes with oil, to remove dead skin surrounding the nail. See our Equipment page to purchase recommended bits, sized to our diamond offerings.
METHOD TWO: Installing Via Dual Forms
Applying diamonds through dual-forms is an even faster adaptation for a skilled nail tech than the first method. Arrange the diamond(s) that will be used Table face down on your work surface. Prep the natural nail as usual, and determine the needed sizes of dual forms. Build the enhancement while accounting for the design’s incorporation of diamonds. Pick up the diamond, leaving the stone’s Table facet facing down, into the form, and position it on the surface of the uncured product. Use a small flat instrument to then press the culet of the diamond, pushing the diamond through the product and flush to the surface of the form. Cure under UV as recommended by the product’s manufacturer. Installing a diamond this way will leave the Table face of the diamond perfectly flush with the top of the enhancement (once applied to the nail).
For maximum brilliance, the diamond will be entirely surrounded by very clear material, suspended over any opaque color designs in the final manicure. This can be accomplished by embedding the diamond into a layer of clear product first in the dual form and curing.
Apply any additional layers of product, curing as the design requires, ensuring that some product covers the point of the diamond. Then, apply the enhancement to the natural nail as usual, cure per manufacturer’s recommendation, and pop off the dual form. Fill and file around the edges of the enhancement as usual to perfect the application. Apply and cure a topcoat, then wipe with alcohol as usual.
Note: I highly recommend Marina Torrealba’s tutorial below for not only best practices using dual forms, but how to create a beautiful French manicure. She has an incredible portfolio of tutorials that showcase how to build elaborate designs into a dual-form.
Marina Torrealba (@almani_designs_nailart)
YourTube Video
FINAL NOTES
The longer the nail enhancement and the wider the natural nail bed, the greater the number and size of diamonds that can be embedded within the structure.
As more nail techs add diamonds to their repertoire, new techniques and designs will be developed. Stay engaged with the diamond nail tech community to continue evolving your diamond-based services to clients!
Gel topcoats are optimized for clarity, glossiness and chemical inertness. They are not adequate alone to secure a stone in place! The founder of MDN lost a few diamonds while experimenting with the strength of top coats.
