WORKING WITH DIAMONDS TIPS & TRICKS
Just like any new piece of equipment, product, or technique, there are certain considerations while working with diamonds that will improve results and efficiency. Techs should understand the critical differences between diamonds and rhinestones to maximize results. Here are some of the top tips we’ve learned while working with diamonds that nail tech pros should know.
WORKSPACE
Additional consideration around your workspace will prevent accidental loss of diamonds. Diamonds are small, colorless and hard - they bounce off hard surfaces, disappear in dust piles and bury themselves in carpet… ask us how we know!
BE CLEAN
Cleanliness takes on a new importance while working with diamonds. Should a stone end up on the floor of your salon, it is worlds easier to find it on a clean, flat, hard floor than one that has seams, nail tips and enhancement dust scattered around. Besides, if you’re in the tier of nail tech to offer diamonds to your clientele, they expect floor to ceiling cleanliness. If you’re a tech just starting out, this is a reminder that of all the skills you need to build, cleanliness is one factor you can perfect immediately!
WORK OVER A SOFT DARK SURFACE
We have designed our packaging for use on the manicure desk to minimize relocation of the stones. Working over the included dark suede drop cloth mitigates bouncing and increases visibility of the diamonds. It is also easy to set aside after diamond installation to continue the manicure over your preferred clean, flat surface.
HAVE ALL EQUIPMENT READY TO GO
The less large motions a nail tech has to make while the diamonds are unsecured, the better. Review our Diamond Application Guide to consider what equipment is needed.
KEEP A FLASHLIGHT NEAR BY
Diamonds are colorless, but reflective. A quick sweep of a powerful flashlight is your best bet for locating a renegade diamond quickly. Turn off ambient lights if needed to better see the sparkle. Also check the folds and seams of your clothes and shoes!
STORING, MOVING, MANIPULATING DIAMONDS
In general, reduce the number of times the stones need to be moved prior to application, or between removal and reapplication.
DON’T RELY ON WAX STONE PICKERS
Wax stone pickers are recommended only for use on the culet (bottom point) of the larger sized diamonds. Diamond material does not naturally attract dust or residue, but the very smallest sizes are at risk of embedding deeply into wax, and larger ones might visibly show wax residue on their facets.
TWEEZERS
High-quality, needle-nosed tweezers are recommended for moving and positioning diamonds. Ideally, they have a squared off, flat back, as that surface can be additionally helpful to position diamonds as described in our Diamond Application Guide. To give a pair of tweezers additional grip, cure a small amount of builder gel on the tip of each arm of the tweezer and wipe any residue with alcohol after curing. Think of picking up a piece of glass with two flat pieces of metal vs the same task with rubbery-coated pieces of metal.
Use only the minimum grip force necessary while picking diamonds up with tweezers. The greater the force, the higher the risk a stone will slip out of place between the tweezer’s arms and be flung into the abyss. It’s better to drop a stone on your work surface - especially if it is thoughtfully covered with the soft, dark fabric recommended - than to catapult it elsewhere.
DIAMONDS VS. RHINESTONES
The only equipment in a salon that can damage diamonds are diamond-grit files or bits. Do not fear using ceramic or carbide bits, nippers, cuticle pushers or any chemical on your diamonds. Diamonds can be soaked in acetone then rubbed between clean fingers to remove any residue. Unlike rhinestones, diamonds have a very different refractive index from the cured products used to make nail enhancements. Because of this, they can be fully encapsulated and still sparkle.
The pointed back of most diamonds is designed to maximize brilliance. This is why we recommend learning how to install the diamonds point-down in the nail instead of the easier, rhinestone-like application of gluing the diamond table-down on the surface.
